Our 6 hour ferry ride from Ketchikan to Wrangell was aboard a different ferry boat, the “Matanuska”, smaller than the Columbia, but just as comfy. We had met a man while hiking in Ketchikan who told us he worked on the ferry boats. When Bernie asked just what his job was he said, “I steer them”!! He went on to describe the nine staff on the bridge running the ferry boats—captain, pilot, second mates, third mates, steersmen, other words that were lost on us—and that we could take a tour of the bridge if we request it of the captain! Well yeah, we thought we might just do that, and we were thrilled when permission was granted!! It was a real highlight of the trip!
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| Matanuska prepares to take on passengers |
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| View of the inside passage of Southeast Alaska from the bridge of the Matanuska |
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| The ferry boat is steered manually, not by auto-pilot |
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| There is something about a man in uniform...! |
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| Beautiful views of snow capped mountains from the deck |
So Wrangell is absolutely beautiful and must be the friendliest place on earth! We were alerted on the ferry that we were nearing the town because huge snow capped mountains began dominating the horizon! WOW! Little Wrangell then appeared on the shoreline and we were instantly charmed.
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| The horizon begins to fill with snow-capped mountains as we approach Wrangell Island |
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| Kathy and Jim see Wrangell in the distance now |
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| Wrangell on arrival 10:30 p.m. |
It is a small town of 2000 and feels even smaller than that! Let me describe our welcome. Bernie had phoned the Wrangell police from Ketchikan to ask if we could simply park our camping rigs in town overnight because the ferry arrives at 10:30 p.m. and we did not want to drive into the woods in darkness to find a campsite. The dispatcher told him there would be no problem at all and just check in with the policeman at the ferry dock. So, sure enough, on arrival, Bernie and Jim walk up to a policeman who is on the phone saying, “Yes, I think I see a couple gentlemen walking toward me right now and I bet that’s them!” His name is “Terry” and he shook all our hands and welcomed us to Wrangell and told us about all possible campgrounds on Wrangell and if we didn’t like any of them we could park here in town overnight if we want to, and then he gave us a police escort to the exact spot we could park tonight which was right beside the ocean, and not to worry if we hear some “huff-huff” noises tomorrow morning because it will just be the seals swimming by, and gosh he sure wished he could just take us all to his place tonight, but he only has room for one camping rig, not two, next to his house, and how about we all pile into the police car right now, and he’ll take us for a ride around town to orient us?” “No, no, thank you, good night!”, we said! Whew! In the morning there was a note on our windshield saying he’d driven around to all the campgrounds for us and reported which ones were already occupied to save us the drive! What a doll!
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| Wrangell, Alaska |
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| Coastline parking where Terry parked us the first night, safe and sound in the morning |
Wrangell is located on Wrangell Island, at the mouth of the Stikine River, the fastest flowing navigable river in North America and one of the very few “wild” rivers that remain on our continent—“wild" meaning completely free of dams along its entire 330 miles stretching well into British Columbia. Humans came to live in this area of tremendous natural resources at least 10,000 years ago, even predating the Tlingit. A very interesting place to visit is the Petroglyph Beach. Here, in rock outcroppings on the beach which faces the mouth of the Stikine, are over 40 rock carvings felt to have been carved at least 8000 years ago by unknown persons for unknown reasons. Because they are exposed to tides and organic matter, carbon-14 dating cannot be used to date them precisely. They are carved in very hard rock, and the chiseled designs are felt to have taken several days each to complete. To walk the beach, examine the carvings, and contemplate their creators was a very memorable experience.
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| Fascinating petroglyph exhibit |
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| Beach on which over 40 petroglyphs can be found near the mouth of the mighty Stikine River |
The Stikine Tlingit did follow these people in settling in this area some 5000 years ago and developed a magnificent culture which declined due to the usual factors post European contact. There are many Tlingits living in Wrangell, however, and we enjoyed visiting with them and seeing their beautiful clan house in the harbor. Their totem poles have been taken down due to decay and lie under covered structures on the clan house grounds where we could still marvel at them. The local museum also had a wonderful and educational exhibit on the Tlingit.
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| I just adore Tlingit art |
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| Current Stikine Tlingit clan house |
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| Killer whale section of totem |
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| Totem wearing traditional Tlingit hat |
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| Three frogs totem |
So did I mention how friendly the people are here? One day we were in town doing some laundry and grocery shopping. We also stopped in the liquor store to buy a 6 pack of Alaskan Brewery's Oatmeal Stout (YUM!). On returning to our camper, a man pulls up in his pick up truck and asks if we have a way to cook some fresh Dungeness crab. “Yes”, we say. He says, "well, I saw you in town with your Wisconsin license plates and when you went in there and came out with my very favorite kind of beer I decided I’d share the crabs I caught today with you!” He then puts a good third of his 5 gallon pail full of crabs into a plastic bag and says, “Here. Just boil them for oh, 12-15 minutes.” He wouldn’t take a penny, nor even a beer in exchange. “Naw. It doesn’t work that way.” We cooked the crabs as directed that night for dinner with Kathy and Jim. They were the best we’ve ever tasted!
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| We enjoy pigging out on fresh Dungeness crab at our camp |
Yesterday morning a man from the U.S. Forest Service in Wrangell drives up to our campground to invite us to a community potluck at 6 p.m., followed by fireside stories on the subject of “fishing”. We went, and thoroughly enjoyed meeting people from this wonderful town and listening to genuine Alaskans tell stories about commercial fishing, rescues at sea (while fishing), fishing contests, and memories of fishing with loved ones many years ago. It was great fun and an evening we’ll never forget!
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| Pot luck in the rain with the Wrangellites |
We know you are wondering if we’ve made any progress in our fishing exploits. Yes, we have. Still no salmon, but we caught enough Dolly Varden—a kind of trout—for dinner one night, and it was delicious, pan fried! Just today Kathy finally hooked a huge Dolly Varden--6 pounds--and we plan to roast that one.
We’ll keep trying for the salmon, though! Besides fishing on the ocean shoreline we have fished in three different inland lakes on Wrangell Island. They were located at the end of trails requiring a half to a mile and a half walk, and there on the shore of each lake sits a boat and paddles to use in fishing. Oh, and two of them had cabins on them. Use of boats and cabins is all free of charge, courtesy of the friendly, trusting folk of Wrangell!
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| Skiff awaits us on Highbrush Lake |
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| Fishing |
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| Bernie fishing the ocean shoreline adds much to the scenery for me! |
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| Fishing Thom's Lake in a really nice 16 foot Lund Boat with not-so-nice paddle! |
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| Bernie paddles in the pouring rain...bless him! |
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| Jim catches a Dolly Varden trout |
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| I like fishing because I feel part of the scenery |
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| So much fishing history here in Alaska! |
Oh, and at the city park, oceanside, were three kayaks sitting in a nice rack for people to use to take out paddling for fun! No charge. Just bring them back to where you found them, okay? We think we must be dreaming!
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| Kayak, anyone? |
And if Wrangell doesn't sound even better than Mayberry, RFD yet, let me tell you a couple more stories! About 7 years ago the US Postal service here offered the people a chance to have their mail delivered to their homes instead of having to pick it up at the post office building. They overwhelmingly voted this down because they preferred to go to town to meet their neighbors every day. Also, there is a rocky ledge somewhere in the Wrangell area in which are found garnets which are semi-precious gemstones. Well, in 1962, the person who discovered this bequeathed it to “the children of Wrangell”, and they are the only ones allow to mine the garnets from it. In fact, even to go there you must be in the company of a Wrangell child! Needless to say, no industrial mining equipment is allowed either. We saw a little girl with a set up like a lemonade stand selling garnets this morning near one of the docks. Too cute! Oh, and just as I recall from living in Tennessee, all the drivers here wave at all the other drivers they pass. I’m telling you, we could stay here forever!!!
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| Cutie pie and her Wrangell garnets |
But, in fact, the time has come for us to move along. Last night we had to say good bye to our beautiful view from camp!
Now we are waiting in the parking lot to be loaded onto our ferry boat for a 1:30 a.m. (!) launch and a 3 hour journey to Petersburg where we will spend the next 7 days. We are sad to be leaving...wait a minute...what's that? A police car! Here comes "Terry" to tell us more stories and say good bye! This is unbelievable!
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| Friends forever!!! |
